- #CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN INSTALL#
- #CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN FULL#
- #CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN FREE#
- #CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN CRACK#
The tech at the Apple Store said that it sounds like the logic board needs to be replaced & it could be from $300 to $400 dollars. I've read some reports that it could be as simple as the battery, only the tech at the Apple Store said no way to that idea. In fact the screen is dark as I write this. Only after a min for a few min it would go back to dark. I would fold the lip down for a min or so, then lift it up and see my screen looking fine. However I could still see a faint image on the screen & things move about when i pressed F3. Only yesterday, my screen went mostly dark. In hindsight I remember having to keep bootsing the brightness on my MacBook for a few months now. Hello, I have a MacBook 2 GHz IntelCore 2 Duo the last three digit's are: 4R1 In my case no repair of the damaged wire insulation was required. Removing the left hinge mount (step 34) allows for removal of the mesh covered foam rubber hold-down. In summary, the screen backlight problem was probably the result of electrical shorting due to the metal mesh contacting the wire through damaged insulation.
It's been two days since this "repair" was completed and all remains well.
#CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN FULL#
The screen backlight remained lit throughout the full range of motion.
The small piece of mesh-clad foam rubber was removed, the hinge mounts reinstalled, and the battery and keyboard reconnected.
#CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN CRACK#
A nearby crack in the insulation of one of the wires was noted. Under the left hinge (step 34), a piece of foam rubber banded in fine metal mesh was discovered compressed between the hinge mount and insulated wiring to the screen. Finally, with the battery again removed and the keyboard disconnected, the screen hinge mounts were removed (steps 33 and 34). Again, no success in uncovering the screen problem. Reinstalling the battery and connecting the keyboard wiring allowed for further troubleshooting by carefully prodding screen wiring. Skipping to steps 36 and beyond exposed the wiring within the screen (display). A careful inspection of the wiring to the screen (after vacuuming an accumulation of dust debris from the circuit boards) revealed no obvious defects. A few days ago I attempted to troubleshoot the problem using the excellent step-by-step guidance found on this site: MacBook Core 2 Duo Front Display Bezel Replacement.Ĭompleting steps 1 to 12 permits removal of the track pad and keyboard, exposing the internal circuit boards and wiring. of arc to sometimes have use of the screen. For the last couple of weeks I've had to repeatedly open and close the screen and carefully finesse the last 50 deg. any more than that would be hit-or-miss. The backlight would remain lit when the screen was opened less than about 45 deg. Good luck with the DIY, definitely among the most challenging (but most rewarding) that I have attempted doing! One other note is to make sure that your new lamp's cords are long enough in order to reach the inverter once re-assembled.
#CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN FREE#
I would recommend using one of the step by step guides for the LCD panel brackets, and once you free the LCD panel, just remove the 2 bottom screws (one on each side) for the housing cover, and then you have access to the actual housing.
#CITRIX ON MAC KEEPS GOING TO A BLANK WHITE SCREEN INSTALL#
Re-assembly is also tricky because you need to use high temperature tape after you install the new lamp on the LCD panel, and then re-assemble everything back correctly (especially the wires). I must warn you that it is an absolutely daunting task because not only do you need to remove almost 30 screws to get to the LCD panel, but you have to carefully remove the tape at the bottom of the panel and carefully extract the lamp from its housing. The long and much cheaper way is to replace the actual 13.3 inch WXGA lamp located at the bottom of the panel. The short and more expensive way to fix this is simply replacing the entire LCD panel - which I would not recommend. I just changed mine and all works fine now.
This is definitely the WXGA lamp, the light source for the LCD panel.
0 kommentar(er)
